The small Norwegian coastal town of Brønnøysund has a Viking heritage that dates back to the 13th century, when a Viking chieftain held court on the nearby island of Torget. Today, that island is home to one of Norway’s great natural curiosities: the mountain of Torghatten. Not only is this giant mound of rock shaped like a troll’s gigantic hat; the hat seems to have been pierced by an arrow, at least that’s how the legend goes. In truth, it was erosion that created this natural tunnel. Of course fairy tales are easy to come by in this magnificent landscape of the Sami people, riddled as it is with 13,000 islands and a rich rural past that lives on at historic farms, fish farms, home-tended gardens and a winery.